On Tuesday afternoon, the Musée Guimet in Paris, renowned for its extensive collection of Asian art, provided the perfect setting for Peter Do’s Spring 2025 runway show. The Vietnamese designer, in collaboration with Philip Huang’s Bangkok studio, unveiled a collection that blends cultural heritage with contemporary fashion.
Peter Do titled his Spring 2025 collection “Grounded”. This title reflects its focus on deconstructing typical summer tailoring, employing featherweight wool, silk, and chiffon textiles. These intricate fabrics required six months of preparation in Philip Huang’s Thailand studio before being shipped to Paris. The color palette, inspired by natural elements like leaves, tree bark, fire, and air, included hues such as oxblood, stone, and midnight. These colors were achieved using centuries-old dyeing techniques, an effort to preserve traditional practices.
Mary H.K. Choi’s reflections in the show notes emphasized a return to valuing manual labor and visible effort in fashion. She questioned the modern preference for smooth, glossy surfaces devoid of texture and seams, noting a longing for garments that showcase the work and resistance involved in their creation.
Do’s collection featured his signature oversized cuts and exposed backs, along with garment-dyed “Vietnam” T-shirts and a new technical satin uniform dubbed “168”, named after the number of hours in a week. The collection included modular silhouettes predominantly in black, adorned with tattoo lines that are poised to become a signature element of Do’s designs.
Backstage, Peter Do expressed a simple desire for his collection: “I hope these pieces don’t make people feel too sweaty.” With the twisted openings, skin-revealing shapes, and bias cuts present in the collection, it seems his wish has been granted.
Peter Do’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection can be viewed in the gallery above. Stay updated on more coverage of Paris Fashion Week at VZN.
