For Miu Miu’s Spring/Summer 2025 show, Paris’ Palais d’Iéna was creatively transformed by artist Goshka Macuga into a makeshift newspaper printing press. This installation, named “Salt Looks Like Sugar,” set the stage for the event. According to Miu Miu, Macuga’s work “presents a constellation of elements for deciphering the concept of truth and its representation.”
At the heart of the installation was a mechanical conveyor continuously feeding a mass of newspapers titled “The Truthless Times.” This backdrop accompanied the models, including notable figures like Willem Defoe and Hilary Swank, who showcased the collection in elegantly understated outfits. Miu Miu’s presentation seamlessly blended office wear with casual styles and retro influences, prompting viewers to ponder current societal norms amidst the often disorienting reality of today.
The initial looks exhibited a disordered layering technique that persisted throughout the collection. White knee-length dresses with intricate scalloped trims, evoking childhood innocence, were artfully deconstructed then paired with oversized windbreakers, drawstring hoodies, and quarter-zip pullovers. Distinctive tube-style tops featuring the Miu Miu wordmark stood out, wrapped around the torso like sweater sleeves.
Mid-show, nods to past eras made their appearance with trench coats patterned like 1970s wallpapers, paired with exaggerated aviator sunglasses. Accessories such as layered metal belts and roomy leather handbags were consistent throughout. Footwear ranged from patent leather pointed heels and loafers to vibrant flip-flops and slides, creating a diverse yet cohesive collection.
Sequined dresses and skirts adorned with floral appliques reminiscent of Miuccia Prada’s more lavish designs appeared more restrained this season. The mostly neutral color palette was occasionally punctuated with vivid hues like bright violet, primary red, baby pink, and sky blue. This minimalistic approach to both embellishment and color highlighted a sense of everyday simplicity, aligning perfectly with the collection’s overall theme.
For a detailed look at the collection, check out the gallery above and follow VZN for continued coverage of Paris Fashion Week.
