The recent presentation of HELIOT EMIL’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection in Paris featured an intriguing invitation that took the shape of an amorphous stone attached to a metal tab, inscribed with “Cultural Construct Artificial Landscape.” The title hints at a compelling exploration of dualities, such as humanity versus artificiality and construct versus landscape.
This captivating theme is further illustrated by a centerpiece created by Encor Studio, showcasing a strobing electrochromic glass sculpture that exemplifies the “tension between what is natural and what is artificial.” This concept resonates with contemporary issues, ranging from the rise of generative AI to challenges posed by climate change. HELIOT EMIL taps into Iceland’s contrasting scenery, drawing inspiration from its remarkable geological features. Creative director Julius Juul remarked, “I took inspiration from Iceland’s breathtaking landscapes. There’s something almost otherworldly about it like the volcanic beaches, the black on black mountains, the way the sand dunes form these organic, flowing shapes.”
The collection reflects a minimalist approach, echoing the newly formed volcanic landscapes. Black-on-black styling prevails, enhanced by curvy lines and draped panels that mimic the smooth contours of lava fields. Accessories align with this theme, featuring a molten chrome ore draped over one model’s shoulder and undulating carabiners that appear throughout the looks. Fabrics also nod to nature, with a terry-like material featuring winding textures on hoodies and looser yarns utilized for summer staples like sweaters and skull caps.
Technological features are deftly integrated into the collection, with puffer jackets boasting visible openings crafted from irregular quilting, ideal for warm weather. Off-white windbreaker ensembles incorporate overlapping webs of opaque fabric, resembling biomimicry in design. The overall essence of the collection evokes an “otherworldly” feeling, occasionally reminiscent of interplanetary sci-fi narratives such as Dune. Elements such as cooling vents, intricate multi-directional belts and zippers, and flowy tunic-adjacent styles contribute to a futuristic aesthetic.
Ultimately, HELIOT EMIL’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection invites a deeper appreciation for the natural world while envisioning potential relationships with the unexplored realms of the future. For those interested, a glimpse of the collection can be viewed in the gallery above, with additional coverage available on VZN.
